EN GÜZEL LİMAN: BERGEN,NORVEÇ

EN GÜZEL LİMAN: BERGEN,NORVEÇ

Muhteşem Norveç gezimizin son durağına ve de yazı dizimizin son yazısına geldik!

Norveç gezimizin son durağı, ülkenin güney batısında yer alan ve de Oslo’dan sonraki en büyük şehir olan Bergen.

En büyük ikinci şehir derken de büyük bir yer beklemeyin, 2018 rakamlarına göre şehrin merkezi 280.000 kişi, tüm metropolitan bölgesini dahil ederseniz de 420.000 kişilik bir yerleşimden bahsediyoruz.

Şehrin tarihi 1020’lere dayanıyor, konumundan dolayı da bir ticaret merkezi olarak doğuyor ve gelişiyor. 13.yy’da başkent olan Bergen şehri, bu ünvanı 1830’larda Oslo’ya devredene kadar da Norveç’in en büyük şehri olmaya devam ediyor.

Flam’dan Bergen’e

Gezimizin bir önceki durağı, fjordların tam kalbinde yer alan muhteşem köy Flam’dı. (Eğer Flam’ın detaylarını okumak isterseniz sizi buraya alalım.)

Flam – Bergen arası, arabayla yaklşık 3,5 saatlik bir yol. Dilerseniz bu yolu trenle de gidebiliyorsunuz ancak daha önceki yazılarımızda da belirttiğimiz gibi trenler oldukça pahalı, eğer 2 kişi veya daha kalabalıksanız, araba kiralamak kesinlikle çok daha ekonomik oluyor.

Flam – Bergen arasındaki yol, tıpkı Oslo- Flam yolu gibi çok keyifli. Tüm yol, dağlardan, ormanlardan ve minik minik yerleşim yerlerinden geçerek gidiyorsunuz. Tabi ki yolun bu tarafında da bol bol tünellerden geçiyorsunuz ama tabi ki önceki yolumuzdaki Laerdal Tüneli’nden sonra bunlar hiç bir şey değil:)!

ResİM GİBİ BİR lİman : Bryggen

Bryggen, hemen hemen tüm Bergen fotoğraflarında gördüğünüz yan yana dizili renkli evlerin olduğu liman bölgesi. Limanın tarihi 1070’lere dayanıyor, Norveç’in kuzeyleri, İzlanda ve de Avrupa kıtasına yapılan tüm ticaret yolunun merkezi olmuş. Bölge, 1979 yılından beri Unesco World Heritage Site listesinde yer alıyor.

Bryggen limanı, aynı zamanda eski şehrin merkezi durumunda. Liman çevresinde pek çok restoran, cafe ve mağaza bulmanız mümkün. Aynı zamanda, Bergen çevresindeki fjordları gezen gemi turları da buradan kalkıyor.

Önerimiz, bu bölgedeki bir otelde kalmanız, böylece şehrin nerdeyse tüm gezilecek yerlerine yürüyerek ulaşabiliyorsunuz. Biz, Scandic Neptun‘de kaldık.  Eski bir otel, ancak konumu muhteşem, limanın hemen bir sokak paralelinde yer alıyor. Oldukça büyük bir otel, odalar çok yeni değil ama ferah. Üstelik harika bir açık büfe kahvaltı sunuyor.

Bergen’e bİr tepeden bakmak: Floibanen

Bergen’e geldiyseniz, mutlaka yapmanız gereken atraksiyonların başında yer alan Floibanen, hemen eski şehir merkezinden kalkan ve Floyen tepesine çıkan bir funiküler hattı.

Limandan 7-8 dk yürüyerek istasyona ulaşyorsunuz. Yaklaşık 8 dk’lık bir yolculukla sizi, deniz seviyesinden 320 m yukarda olan Floyen’e çıkartıyor. Burada da, hele güzel bir havaya da denk geldiyseniz, muhteşem bir Bergen manzarası sizi bekliyor!

Floyen tepesinde manzaranın yanı sıra harika bir park içerisinde yürüme fırsatınız da var. Önerimiz, tepeye funiküler ile çıkın, manzaranın tadını çıkardıktan sonra, önce parkın içinde biraz dolaşın, sonra da dönüş yolunu çok keyifli bir orman içinde yokuş aşağı yürüyerek yapın. Biraz zaman alıyor, ancak hava güzelse harika oluyor. Dönüşte funikülere binmeyin, biraz temiz hava alın:)

Funiküler, sabah erken saatlerde açılıyor ve genellikle akşam 23:00’e kadar devam ediyor. Önerimiz, sabah erken saatlerde gitmeniz, genellikle epey uzun bir sıra oluyor. Bu sizi üzmesin, sıra oldukça hızlı ilerliyor. Sabahtan gidip, güneş de varken manzaranın tadını çıkarırsanız, hem daha keyifli bir etkinlik olacak, hem de günün sonrasını daha rahat planlayabileceksiniz.

Sırada beklemek derken, funiküler sırasında beklerken hemen yanda yer alan muhteşem de bir kahve mekanı keşfettik! Godt Brod isimli bu cafe’den nefis kahveler, kruvasan veya sandviçler almanız ve de sırayı çok daha keyifli beklemeniz de mümkün, aklınızda olsun.

 

Fjord gezmeden olmaz

Norveç’te bir şehre gelip de fjordları gezen bir gemi yolculuğu yapmamak olmaz!

İtiraf edelim, Flam’daki fjordlardan sonra burdakiler biraz sönük geldi, ama eminiz, ilk turu burda yapıyor olsaydık hayran kalırdık!

Bryggen limanından kalkan tur, 3 saat sürüyor. Bu tur sırasında, önce Nordhordaland Köprüsü’nü görüyor, sonrasında da Osterfjord boyunca ilerleyecek Mostraumen bölgesine kadar gidiyorsunuz. Yolda tabi ki onlarca şelale, minik yerleşim yerleri, dik ve yüksek fjordlarla muhteşem bir doğa sizi bekliyor. Flam’dakilere kıyasla burdaki alanlar biraz daha meskun, arada biraz daha sık ev, köy görebiliyorsunuz.

Turun sonlarına yakın, kocaman bir şelaleye yanaşıyorlar, kaptan ve görevliler bu şelaleden akan buz gibi suları, şişelere doldurarak yolculara ikram ediyor. Gerçekten çok ama çok lezzetli bir su, içmeden dönmeyin.

Bergen’de ne yenİr?

Valla, denİzden ÇIkan her Şey yenİr!

Şehrin alametifarikalarından biri, hemen limanda yer alan kocaman bir balık pazarı!!  Bu alanda, hem garsonların servis yaptığı, oturup keyifle yemek yiyebileceğiniz restoranlar, hem de ayaküstü seçtiğiniz balıkları, deniz mahsüllerini pişirip size veren, atıştırarak yürümeye devam edebileceğiniz standlar mevcut. (Yalnız ne yaparsanız yapın, deniz mahsülü dışındaki yiyeceklere çok da itibar etmeyin, biz standların birinden bir paella yiyelim dedik, bin pişman olduk: )

Tabi ki en çok bulacağınız şey, somon. Somonun her türlüsünü, çiğ olarak servis edilen sashimiden füme somona, ızgara edilmişten burger köftesi haline gelmişe kadar her türlü somonu yiyin ve deneyin.

(fotoğraf için teşekkürler visitbergen.com)

Bunun dışında yine bölgede yetişen balıklardan Halibut, Yellowfin Tuna ve Bluefin Tuna’yı da, hem çiğ hem pişmiş yiyebilirsiniz. Tabi seçenekler sadece balıklarla sınırlı değil! Istakoz ve yengeç gibi kabuklular, karidesler ve de en muhteşemi, devasa deniz tarakları yani King Scallop’lar yiyebiliyorsunuz.

Norveç’teki her yer gibi, burda da fiyatlar yüksek, ne yazık ki bu canım yiyecekleri çok da ucuza yiyemiyorsunuz. Ancak en azından, Türkiye’de yeme fırsatımız olmayan çeşitlere para ödediğimizi düşünmek biraz da olsa insanın içine su serpiyor. Bu nedenle de, ne yapıp edin, yemeklerinizi hep deniz mahsullerinden seçin, bari para boşa gitmesin:)

Sosİs sevenlerİ buraya alalIm

Bergen’in deniz mahsullerinden sonra en meşhur olduğu yiyecek dev sosisleri! Şehrin hemen merkezinde, liman ve funiküler istasyonunun hemen ortasında yer alan 3-Kroneren isimli mekan da, şehrin en meşhur yerlerinden biri.

Burası minik bir stand, oturma yeri vs yok, sosislilerinizi alıp elde yiyorsunuz. Ancak inanın buna kesinlikle değiyor!!! 3-Kroneren’de dana, sosis ve kuzu etinden çeşitli sosisliler yemeniz mümkün, en meşhur oldukları ise geyik sosisi!

(fotoğraf için teşekkürler bergenfoodtours.com)

Bu sosisi, diğerlerinden farklı olarak kızarmış soğan, hardal ve de lingonberry dedikleri, bu bölgede yetişen bir böğürtlenin sosu ile sunuyorlar. Geyik etiyle bu tatlı sosun uyumu ise muhteşem, mutlaka deneyin!

Bergen, gezmesi, yemek yemesi çok keyifli bir şehir ama geceleri çok sakin! Elbette yerel halkın bildiği yerler mutlaka vardır, ancak bizim gördüğümüz, liman bölgesindeki minik barlar haricinde pek bir heyecan yok! Daha önce Stockholm’de gittiğimiz ve pek beğendiğimiz Ice Bar’ın burda olduğunu öğrenince önce minik bir heyecan yaptık, ama mekana gidip de gerçekle yüzleşince hevesimiz kursağımızda kaldı. İsmi sizi yanıltmasın, diğer şehirlerdeki Ice Bar ile pek alakası yok. Şehrin daha çok iş yeri olan tarafında bir apartmanın girişinde yer alan tuhaf bir mekan, biz gittiğimizde içerde sadece 2 kişi, kapıda da uyumak üzere olan bir görevli vardı. Kapıdan bile girmeden koşarak geri döndük:)

Norveç gezimizin son durağı Bergen’de bol bol yedikten sonra gezimizi, Bergen’den Oslo’ya uçup, Oslo’dan da İstanbul’a dönerek tamamlamıştık. Dilerseniz Bergen- Oslo arasını da tabi ki trenle ya da arabayla gezerek geçebilirsiniz.

Biz tek kelime ile Norveç’e bayıldık!! Fırsat olsa, keşke ilerde tekrar gitsek, daha kuzeyleri gezsek, Kuzey Işıkları’nı izlesek.

Gezinin diğer yazılarını okumak isterseniz, tüm gezinin özeti için buraya, Oslo detayları için buraya, fjordların kalbindeki minik köy Flam için de buraya tıklayabilirsiniz.

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