FJORDLARIN KALBİNDEKİ ŞEHİR: FLAM, NORVEÇ

FJORDLARIN KALBİNDEKİ ŞEHİR: FLAM, NORVEÇ

Muhteşem Norveç turumuzun 2.durağı, tüm gezinin belki de en çok hayran kaldığımız yeri oldu!

Flam, fjordların tam kalbinde yer alan mini minnacık bir köy. Köyün nüfusu 2014’te 350 kişiymiş, şimdi de çok kalabalıklaştığını söyleyemeyiz:) Ancak bulunduğu muhteşem konumdan dolayı her gün yüzlerce turistin ziyaret ettiği bir köy. Hatta pek çok Norveç Fjordları Cruise gemilerinin duraklarından biri haline de gelmiş durumda. Yılda nerdeyse 450 bin kişinin ziyaret ettiği bir yer burası!

(fotoğraf için teşekkürler visitnorway.com)

Turist akını bölge insanlarını ve de bazı yazar, gazeteci kişileri isyana yöneltmiş durumda, özellikle cruise gemilerinin bölgenin doğasına büyük zarar verdiği yönünde şikayetler her sene artıyor.

Flam, Sognefjorden isimli büyük fjordun bir kolu olan Aurlandfjorden’ın en içerdeki noktasını oluşturuyor. Bu köye dair ilk tarihi bilgiler ise 14.yy’ın ortalarına dayanıyor.

Oslo’dan Flam’a yolculuk

Oslo’dan Flam’a yaklaşık 320 km’lik bir yol mevcut. Ükedeki çok ciddi hız sınırları, ve de arada bol bol tünel geçiyor olmanızdan dolayı da bu yol nerdeyse 5 saat sürüyor. İşin en güzel yanı ise, 5 saat boyunca Norveç’in muhteşem doğası içinde dağlardan, ovalardan, minik köyler ve göller arasından giden bir yolda gidiyorsunuz, bu nedenle de yolun uzunluğu hiç ama hiç üzmüyor.

Tünel demişken, Norveç’in alametifarikalarından biri de tüneller. Tüm ülkenin dağlar ve fjordlarla çevrili olduğunu düşünürsek, tünel inşaatı ciddi bir ihtiyaç konumunda. Norveç’te şu anda 1000’in üzerinde tünel olduğundan bahsediliyor, kısacası tüm ülkeyi tünellerle donatmış durumdalar!

Oslo-Flam yolundaysa, hazır olun, Dünyanın En Uzun Tüneli olan Laerdal Tüneli’nden geçme şansınız oluyor. 2000 yılında açılmış olan tünel, tam tamına 24,5 km uzunluğunda! (Biz tünele farkında olmadan girdik, epey bir süre yol gittikten sonra tünelin sonuna gelmediğimizi farkedince bir anda duruma ayıldık:)

(fotoğraflar için teşekkürler wikipedia.com ve qlcompany.nl)

Her 6km’de bir, tünelin içerisindeki yol geniiliyor, sağda birer arabalık durma yerleri olan bir alana geliyorsunuz. Bu kısımların  ışıklandırması da tamamen farklı, tünelin genelindeki ışıklandırmadan farklı olarak masmavi ışıklarla aydınlatılmış geniş bir mağaradan geçerek tünele devam ediyorsunuz.

Güneş hissi vermesi amaçlanan sarı köşelerle beraber bu mavi ışıklandırmanın amacı, hem uzun süren yol sırasnda sürücülerin dikkatinin dağılmasını önlemek hem de nerdeyse 20dk süren bu tünel yolcuğunda klostrofobik bir moda geçen kişilere minik de olsa bir mola yeri vermekmiş.

Tünelden çıktığınızda ise tam bir cennetle karşılaşıyorsunuz. Yemyeşil bir doğa sizi yeniden karşılıyor, zaten çok kısa bir süre içinde de Flam’ın merkezine ulaşmış oluyorsunuz.

Eğer dilerseniz bu yolu trenle de gidebiliyorsunuz, trene bağlı olarak yaklaşık 6 saat bir yolculuk oluyor. Yine oldukça güzel yollardan geçiyorsunuz ancak tabi ki trenler çok pahalı. Eğer 2 kişiden fazlaysanız ve araba kullanmayı çok seven biriyle seyahat etme şansına sahipseniz kesinlikle araba ile gidin:) Trenleri incelemek için buraya tıklayabilirsiniz.

Naeroyfjord’un kalbİ FlAm

Köyde yapılacaklar son derece belli:) Fjordları ve doğayı gezeceksiniz!

Biz, Pazar günü erken saatlerde Oslo’dan yola çıkmıştık, 5 saatin sonunda Flam’a ulaşıp öncelikle otelimize yerleştik. Otel konusu önemli, çünkü çok ufak bir yer olması nedeniyle çok da fazla seçeneğiniz yok. Dolayısıyla buraya gelmeden önce mutlaka ve mutlaka otelinizi ayırtın, son dakika yer bulma ihtimaliniz neredeyse sıfır.

Biz, açıkçası köyün en güzel otellerinden biri olan Fl??msbrygga’da kaldık. Otel, hemen köyün içinde ve suyun kenarında, dolayısıyla uyandığınızda minik balkonunuzdan nefis bir manzara görebiliyorsunuz. Otelin aynı zamanda köyün en güzel yemeklerini yiyebileceğiniz bir restoranı ve de kendi biralarını yapan bir pub’ı mevcut, bunlardan birine de mutlaka gidin.

Tarİhİ trenle doĞanın İÇİne yolculuk

Köydeki en sık yapılan aktivitelerden biri, tarihi bir tren hattı olan Flamsbana ile 1 saatlik bir yolculukla Myrdal durağına na gidip gelmek. Bu tren hattı dünyanın en güzel tren yollarından biri olarak adlandırılıyor. Deniz seviyesinden bindiğiniz tren sizi 867m yüksekliğe kadar çıkartıyor, bu arada da muhteşem dağlar ve onlarca şelale görebiliyorsunuz.

(fotoğraf için teşekkürler nordicvisitor.com)

Yolun bir noktasında tren duruyor, ve aşağı inerek muhteşem bir şelalenin yanına , Kjosfossen Şelalesi’ne gidebiliyorsunuz. Fotoğraf çekmek için şahane bir fırsat! Yalnız işin biraz komik tarafı, sanırım biraz fazla turistik olması ile sevmediğmiz kısmı, birden tepelerden kırmızılar içinde bir kadın çıkıyor. Yerel bir müzik başlıyor, ve kadın dansetmeye başlıyor:) Yaklaşık 5dk bir danstan sonra da aniden kayboluyor. İşin hikayesi de şu, mitolojiye göre bu kadın Huldra. Dağlarda belirerek gezenleri büyülüyor ve ormanın içine doğru çekiyor, bu dansla da bu mitolojik hikayeye bir minik gönderme yapıyorlar. Tabi bayaa saçma olmuş, epey gülüyorsunuz o ayrı:)

(fotoğraf için teşekkürler nordicvisitor.com)

Biz gidiş geliş bir tur yaptık, yani 1 saatlik yolculuğun sonunda Myrdal’da 15dk bir mola verdik, sonra yeniden 1 saatlik bir tren keyfi ile Flam’a geri döndük. Dilerseniz dönüş yolunu bisiklet kiralayarak da yapabilirsiniz ama tabi oldukça iddialı bir yol olabilir. (Myrdal durağından Bergen ve Oslo’ya giden trenler de kalkıyor, pek çok kişi bu Flam -Myrdal hattını bu trenlere bir bağlantı olarak da kullanıyor)

Flam’a geri döndüğümüzde, minik bir alışveriş turunun ardından (hemen tren istasyonunun yakınında çok güzel bir kaç dükkan var, hediyelik eşya veya Norveç ürüneri almak isterseniz çok başarılılar) akşam yemeğine geçtik. Yemeği, bahsettiğimiz gibi otelin restoranında, Flamstova‘da yedik, ama dilerseniz köyde farklı birkaç yer daha mevcut.

YeŞİl, yeŞİl ve daha Çok yeŞİl:

Cumartesi sabahı ise, otelde güzel bir kahvaltının ardından asıl gelme nedenimiz olan Fjord Gemi Turu maceramıza başladık. (Bir minik not, eğer kahvaltı etmediyseniz hemen tren istasyonunun dibindeki Flam Bakery çok başarılıymış, aklınızda olsun)

Hemen köyün içerisindeki rıhtımdan kalkan tur bizi 3 saat boyunca Naeroyfjord içerisinde gezdirdi. Bu bölge, Unesco World Heritage listesinde yer alan bir yer. Bazı yerlerde 1800m yüksekliklere çıkan fjordlara ve çok dar geçişlere sahip, muhteşem bir bölge.

Önemli bir not, hava köyde nasıl olursa olsun bu turda üşüyorsunuz! Dolayısıyla kat kat giyinmeyi, atkı / şapka almayı ve sıkı bir mont-rüzgarlık giymeyi, hangi mevsimde giderseniz gidin sakın unutmayın! Neyse ki turu yaptığımız geminin her yeri camlarla kaplı, dolayısyla rüzgara dayanamayıp içerde otursanız bile manzaranın tadını çıkarabiliyorsunuz. Dilerseniz de geminin dışına çıkıp açık havada takılabiliyorsunuz.

(fotoğraflar için teşekkürler visitflam.com)

3 saat boyunca ağzımız açık manzarayı izledik! Yüksek fjordlar, aralardaki muhteşem şelaleler, minik yerleşim alanları ile burası tam bir cennet! Hiç alışık olmadığımız bir doğa, bizi bizden aldı!

Turun son durağı, Gudvangen isimli bir köy. Satın aldığımız tur, gidiş dönüş içeriyordu dolayısıyla 3 saatlik bir gemi turunun ardından Gudvangen’de 20dk bir mola verdik ve ardından tur şirketinin otobüsleri ile 15dk bir yolculukla Flam’a geri döndük. Gemi turunun detaylarını incelemek, fiyatlarına bakmak isteyenleri buraya alalım.

 

Flam’da toplamda 1 gün geçirmiş olduk ama buraya tek kelimeyle bayıldık! Eğer Norveç’e gidecekseniz ve amacınız doğayı, fjordları görmekse kesinlikle uğranması gereken duraklardan biri burası!

Yazı dizimizin son kısmı, gezimizin son durağı olan Bergen şehri olacak. Flam’dan Bergen’e doğru yola çıkıyoruz, yeni yazı çok yakında!

Gezimizin diğer durakları ile ilgili yazıları da okumadıysanız, Oslo yazımız için buraya, tüm gezinin özeti için de buraya tıklayın.

110 Comments

  • […] Gezimizin bir önceki durağı, fjordların tam kalbinde yer alan muhteşem köy Flam’dı. (Eğer Flam’ın detaylarını okumak isterseniz sizi buraya alalım.) […]

  • NORDİK CENNET: NORVEÇ – HappyWeekendMe

    April 3, 2019 at 12:27 pm

    […] Ertesi sabah arabamızı kiraladık ve yaklaşık 5 saatlik, (ama tamamı ormanlar ve göller içerisinden geçen, fjord tepelerinden dolaştığımız, tünellerle dağları geçtiğimiz) çok ama çok keyifli bir yolculuk yaptık. Fjordların tam ortasında yer alan Flam şehrine geçtik. Burda keyifli bir tren turu yaparak dağların içinden geçerek bölgeyi gezdik. İkinci gecemizi Flam’da geçirdik. (Eğer araba kullanmak istemezseniz aynı rotayı trenle de gidebiliyorsunuz. Yine manzaralı keyifli bir yolculuk olur, ancak trenler epey pahalı, kişi başı 200 USD’a denk gelebiliyor:/ Trenleri incelemek için burayı tıklayabilirsiniz.) Flam’daki günümüzün detayları da burada.  […]

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    Zune and iPod: Most people compare the Zune to the Touch, but after seeing how slim and surprisingly small and light it is, I consider it to be a rather unique hybrid that combines qualities of both the Touch and the Nano. It’s very colorful and lovely OLED screen is slightly smaller than the touch screen, but the player itself feels quite a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as much, and is noticeably smaller in width and height, while being just a hair thicker.

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    Between me and my husband we’ve owned more MP3 players over the years than I can count, including Sansas, iRivers, iPods (classic & touch), the Ibiza Rhapsody, etc. But, the last few years I’ve settled down to one line of players. Why? Because I was happy to discover how well-designed and fun to use the underappreciated (and widely mocked) Zunes are.

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    The Zune concentrates on being a Portable Media Player. Not a web browser. Not a game machine. Maybe in the future it’ll do even better in those areas, but for now it’s a fantastic way to organize and listen to your music and videos, and is without peer in that regard. The iPod’s strengths are its web browsing and apps. If those sound more compelling, perhaps it is your best choice.

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    I’ll gear this review to 2 types of people: current Zune owners who are considering an upgrade, and people trying to decide between a Zune and an iPod. (There are other players worth considering out there, like the Sony Walkman X, but I hope this gives you enough info to make an informed decision of the Zune vs players other than the iPod line as well.)

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    I’ll gear this review to 2 types of people: current Zune owners who are considering an upgrade, and people trying to decide between a Zune and an iPod. (There are other players worth considering out there, like the Sony Walkman X, but I hope this gives you enough info to make an informed decision of the Zune vs players other than the iPod line as well.)

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    The new Zune browser is surprisingly good, but not as good as the iPod’s. It works well, but isn’t as fast as Safari, and has a clunkier interface. If you occasionally plan on using the web browser that’s not an issue, but if you’re planning to browse the web alot from your PMP then the iPod’s larger screen and better browser may be important.

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    This is getting a bit more subjective, but I much prefer the Zune Marketplace. The interface is colorful, has more flair, and some cool features like ‘Mixview’ that let you quickly see related albums, songs, or other users related to what you’re listening to. Clicking on one of those will center on that item, and another set of “neighbors” will come into view, allowing you to navigate around exploring by similar artists, songs, or users. Speaking of users, the Zune “Social” is also great fun, letting you find others with shared tastes and becoming friends with them. You then can listen to a playlist created based on an amalgamation of what all your friends are listening to, which is also enjoyable. Those concerned with privacy will be relieved to know you can prevent the public from seeing your personal listening habits if you so choose.

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    The Zune concentrates on being a Portable Media Player. Not a web browser. Not a game machine. Maybe in the future it’ll do even better in those areas, but for now it’s a fantastic way to organize and listen to your music and videos, and is without peer in that regard. The iPod’s strengths are its web browsing and apps. If those sound more compelling, perhaps it is your best choice.

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    Apple now has Rhapsody as an app, which is a great start, but it is currently hampered by the inability to store locally on your iPod, and has a dismal 64kbps bit rate. If this changes, then it will somewhat negate this advantage for the Zune, but the 10 songs per month will still be a big plus in Zune Pass’ favor.

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    Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.

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    Between me and my husband we’ve owned more MP3 players over the years than I can count, including Sansas, iRivers, iPods (classic & touch), the Ibiza Rhapsody, etc. But, the last few years I’ve settled down to one line of players. Why? Because I was happy to discover how well-designed and fun to use the underappreciated (and widely mocked) Zunes are.

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    The Zune concentrates on being a Portable Media Player. Not a web browser. Not a game machine. Maybe in the future it’ll do even better in those areas, but for now it’s a fantastic way to organize and listen to your music and videos, and is without peer in that regard. The iPod’s strengths are its web browsing and apps. If those sound more compelling, perhaps it is your best choice.

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    The Zune concentrates on being a Portable Media Player. Not a web browser. Not a game machine. Maybe in the future it’ll do even better in those areas, but for now it’s a fantastic way to organize and listen to your music and videos, and is without peer in that regard. The iPod’s strengths are its web browsing and apps. If those sound more compelling, perhaps it is your best choice.

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    The new Zune browser is surprisingly good, but not as good as the iPod’s. It works well, but isn’t as fast as Safari, and has a clunkier interface. If you occasionally plan on using the web browser that’s not an issue, but if you’re planning to browse the web alot from your PMP then the iPod’s larger screen and better browser may be important.

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    This is getting a bit more subjective, but I much prefer the Zune Marketplace. The interface is colorful, has more flair, and some cool features like ‘Mixview’ that let you quickly see related albums, songs, or other users related to what you’re listening to. Clicking on one of those will center on that item, and another set of “neighbors” will come into view, allowing you to navigate around exploring by similar artists, songs, or users. Speaking of users, the Zune “Social” is also great fun, letting you find others with shared tastes and becoming friends with them. You then can listen to a playlist created based on an amalgamation of what all your friends are listening to, which is also enjoyable. Those concerned with privacy will be relieved to know you can prevent the public from seeing your personal listening habits if you so choose.

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    This is getting a bit more subjective, but I much prefer the Zune Marketplace. The interface is colorful, has more flair, and some cool features like ‘Mixview’ that let you quickly see related albums, songs, or other users related to what you’re listening to. Clicking on one of those will center on that item, and another set of “neighbors” will come into view, allowing you to navigate around exploring by similar artists, songs, or users. Speaking of users, the Zune “Social” is also great fun, letting you find others with shared tastes and becoming friends with them. You then can listen to a playlist created based on an amalgamation of what all your friends are listening to, which is also enjoyable. Those concerned with privacy will be relieved to know you can prevent the public from seeing your personal listening habits if you so choose.

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    I’ll gear this review to 2 types of people: current Zune owners who are considering an upgrade, and people trying to decide between a Zune and an iPod. (There are other players worth considering out there, like the Sony Walkman X, but I hope this gives you enough info to make an informed decision of the Zune vs players other than the iPod line as well.)

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    Apple now has Rhapsody as an app, which is a great start, but it is currently hampered by the inability to store locally on your iPod, and has a dismal 64kbps bit rate. If this changes, then it will somewhat negate this advantage for the Zune, but the 10 songs per month will still be a big plus in Zune Pass’ favor.

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    If you’re still on the fence: grab your favorite earphones, head down to a Best Buy and ask to plug them into a Zune then an iPod and see which one sounds better to you, and which interface makes you smile more. Then you’ll know which is right for you.

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    Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.

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    Apple now has Rhapsody as an app, which is a great start, but it is currently hampered by the inability to store locally on your iPod, and has a dismal 64kbps bit rate. If this changes, then it will somewhat negate this advantage for the Zune, but the 10 songs per month will still be a big plus in Zune Pass’ favor.

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    The Zune concentrates on being a Portable Media Player. Not a web browser. Not a game machine. Maybe in the future it’ll do even better in those areas, but for now it’s a fantastic way to organize and listen to your music and videos, and is without peer in that regard. The iPod’s strengths are its web browsing and apps. If those sound more compelling, perhaps it is your best choice.

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    If you’re still on the fence: grab your favorite earphones, head down to a Best Buy and ask to plug them into a Zune then an iPod and see which one sounds better to you, and which interface makes you smile more. Then you’ll know which is right for you.

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